If you want to customize soap down to the last ingredient, cold process is
a great option. You get to choose the oils, colorants, scents, and more.
Once you find your perfect recipe you can start getting creative with the
designs. Below you’ll find cold process terms, safety tips, and a list of
the equipment you need to get started.
Commonly-Used Terms:
Trace: This is the point when the oils and lye water are emulsified.
At thin trace, there will be no streaks of oil and the soap will be the
consistency of thin cake batter. As the soap sits, it will continue to
thicken to medium and thick trace. This video has more information and
examples of each stage.
Gel Phase: During gel phase, soap gets as
hot as 180°F and develops a gelatinous appearance. Learn more in the
Jazzed About Gel Phase post. Gelled soap has a brighter color and a
slightly shiny appearance. It can also be unmolded more quickly. Some
makers force their soap through gel phase with blankets and heating pads.
However, gel phase isn’t required – it’s personal preference. It only
affects the look of the bars, not the quality. Ungelled soap has a more
matte appearance. You can prevent gel phase by putting soap in the freezer
for 24 hours. Learn how to force it or prevent it in the When to Insulate
Handmade Soap post.
Curing: Technically, cold process soap is safe
to use after a few days. However, we recommend letting the soap cure for
4-6 weeks in a cool, dry place with good airflow. Excess water will
evaporate, which creates harder and milder bars that last longer in the
shower. It’s definitely worth the wait.
Lye Calculator: This tool
makes formulating cold process recipes easy. All you have to do is enter
the oil weight or percentage and the Lye Calculator will give you the lye
and liquid amount you need for your recipe. It also calculates the
superfat level. Learn how to use the Lye Calculator here.
Soda Ash: This
creates an uneven, white, ashy film on soap. It forms when unsaponified
lye reacts with naturally-occurring carbon dioxide in the air. It doesn’t
affect the quality and the soap is safe to use. However, it can obscure
more intricate designs or make the bars feel crumbly. You can prevent it
with a few tricks, including a 10% water discount and gel phase.
Learn more at Soap Queen's Blog
