i love to surf

this page will give you a bit of history on women's surfing

While women did not break into the sport of suring off the coast of California until the mid 1970's, Hawaiian women had taken up the sport centuries earlier.

From Magic Seaweed:

"With roots entwined amongst the royalty of Ancient Polynesia, surfing has been called The Sport of Kings. But to use this name alone is to deny the full and rightful history of the art of riding waves. It has always also been The Sport of Queens. Surfing has been part of Hawaiian culture since the fourth century when Polynesians settled the islands and brought wave riding with them.

In pre-contact Hawaii, surfing was for everyone; mothers, grandfathers, warriors, princesses, children.

In fact, historians of Ancient Polynesia acknowledge that it was women who seemed to stand in the highest regard for their skill, grace and poise as surfers.

Woven deep into the chants and lore of our surfing culture’s roots are the stories of revered women who rode waves with utmost grace and athleticism. Surfing was of such value to early Hawaiians that it was forbidden to work or war during prime surf season – everyone took a full three months off over winter for social bonding via play and playful competition -- called The Makahiki Festival. The ecological abundance of the Hawaiian islands meant food was easily accessed, and so leisure was also abundant.""