The Joy of Surfing

More than just a sport

Surf has become one of the most famous sports in the past decade. The history of surfing began with the ancient Polynesians. That initial culture directly influenced modern surfing, which began to flourish and evolve in the early 20th century, with its popularity peaking during the 1950s and 1960s (principally in Hawaii, Australia, and California). It has affected music, fashion, literature, film, art, and youth jargon in popular culture. The number of surfers throughout the world continues to increase as the culture spreads.

You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.

- Jon Kabat-Zinn -

Even so, there is still a stereotype associated with the surfing lifestyle that people seem to hang on to. The Californian bleached hair, laid back attitude and the “I don’t care for much” look, often connected with surfers, is now more than ever an outdated concept. When you spend some time with a surfer you realize that surfing can be a mindset or a lifestyle for those who make it a habit to be in the water and have the need to feel the connection with the ocean. But searching for that connection constantly, surprisingly, teaches us quite a lot about life:

• Timing is everything
  When in the water a surfer has to wait for the perfect instant to paddle into that incredible wave. This has to become almost natural for the surfer, since being a few seconds off means losing the wave. In a world where everyone is rushing and anxious, being able to wait and feel the right time is quite a rare and life-changing practice.
• Being present
  Mindfulness is a new concept which consists in being present and focusing all your attention on what is happening right now. People feel so disconnected that there are actually people making millions with coaching, books, and lectures about how to learn to be and concentrate at the moment. When surfing presence is everything, it requires a lot of focus and attention to detail to succeed and become better every day.
• Success and Failure
  One thing we learn about life is that failing is inevitable, bui it is very probable that you will fail a great number of times before you achieve your goal. But the way you deal with failure will define who you are and, possibly, your chances to succeed.
  Surfing teaches us that failing is part of life and if you insist it will also teach you how to deal with it to turn the fear of failure into fuel for your persistence and success.
  Surfing can instruct us to live a life to the full. It also shows us that fear is normal and stepping out of your comfort zone can be very frightening until you give it a try. Also, the moment you decide to do it you will only focus on that instant and naturally forget about the fear.

What's the best way to learn to surf?

Before you start surfing, you must know this: surfing is one of the most difficult and complex sport in the world. Not one wave is the same, so your playground is constantly changing. Elements such as wind, tides and swells are affecting the waves you surf differently every single day. It’s a very challenging and enjoyable learning process.

The good news is: Once you catch your first “green wave”, that’s it: You’re hooked!

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