Surfing is both a sport and a state of mind: a balance between athletic
skill and soulful connection with the sea. It involves riding
waves on a surfboard, using the power of the ocean to glide toward the
shore, but for me, it's far more than that simple definition. There's a
deep calm that comes from paddling out and waiting for the right swell,
a sense of unity with the natural rhythm of the water.
Each
wave is a small act of trust, between you and something much bigger than
yourself. Beyond the technique and balance, surfing becomes a
meditation: the salt on your skin, the light on the water, and that
feeling of being completely present in the moment.