The process of fermenting foods—to preserve them and to make them more
digestible and more nutritious—is as old as humanity. From the
Tropics—where cassava is thrown into a hole in the ground to allow it to
soften and sweeten—to the Arctic—where fish are customarily eaten
“rotten” to the consistency of ice cream—fermented foods are valued for
their health-giving properties and for their complex tastes.
Unfortunately, fermented foods have largely disappeared from the western
diet, much to the detriment of our health and economy. For fermented
foods are a powerful aid to digestion and a protection against disease;
and because fermentation is, by nature, an artisanal process, the
disappearance of fermented foods has hastened the centralization and
industrialization of our food supply, to the detriment of small farms
and local economies.