Set upon a promontory that stretches into the Tyrrhenian Sea, Milazzo is the main port and point of departure to reach the archipelago, and most people spend less than an hour passing through the town. Which is exactly what I did on my first visit to the Aeolian Islands: I arrived in Milazzo with just enough time to have a granita at the port before hopping on a ferry to Lipari. This year, on a return journey to the Aeolian Islands, I decided to linger in Milazzo a little longer. If I’ve learned anything from a decade traveling through Italy, it’s that every destination - no matter how large or small - has something unexpected about it, and local experts are key to navigating new destinations.