Mikako picking an outfit

Ai Yazawa: Fashion Influences

Fashion in manga

Photo of Ai Yazawa

Who is Ai Yazawa?

Ai Yazawa, the acclaimed manga artist and fashion visionary, is a creative force that has left an indelible mark on both the world of manga and the realm of fashion. With a unique and captivating style, Yazawa's works are renowned for their depth, emotion, and for accurately portraying the struggles of the younger generation. The author was born in Osaka in 1967 and from an early age, Ai Yazawa exhibited a great love for sketching, a passion that stayed with her as she grew up. During her middle school years, she entered a cartoonist competition sponsored by Shueisha, winning the first place and emerging as a promising newcomer. Her fascination with fashion also sparked her creativity and she channeled this enthusiasm into handcrafting her own clothing during her formative years. Despite initially pursuing a degree in fashion design at university, she ultimately abandoned her studies and made the decision to move to Tokyo and become a mangaka. Nevertheless, fashion remained an integral part of Ai Yazawa's life and artistic works as she has masterfully woven fashion into the very essence of her manga through her iconic characters. Ai Yazawa has an impressive collection of publications, with her debut work being "Gokinjo Monogatari”, followed shortly by the spin-off "Paradise Kiss", which only served to amplify her acclaim. However, it was "Nana", that catapulted her career, solidifying her status as a renowned manga artist.

Gokinjo Monogatari

The story follows the lives of a group of high-school students living in an apartment complex in a neighborhood, focusing on the challenges they face as they pursue their dreams.
The main protagonist is Mikako Kouda, a young and ambitious girl with a strong passion for fashion. She dreams of establishing her own fashion label called "Happy Berry". The manga delves into her journey to achieve this dream while navigating the complexities of teenage life, friendship, and love. Gokinjo Monogatari introduced Ai Yazawa's trademark style with tall, slender characters resembling fashion sketches and we can see that the focus on fashion as a path of self-expression and career building reflected Yazawa's own experiences, as she attended a fashion school and created clothes herself.
In Gokinjo Monogatari, Ai Yazawa artfully incorporates a variety of styles, with an emphasis on Punk, Lolita, Retro-futuristic and 'French Casual'. Let's briefly analyze each one of them:

#1 Risa Kanzaki: Punk

Punk fashion emerged as a daring and nonconformist style during the 1970s. Embracing an anti-establishment ethos, it features edgy elements like ripped clothing, leather jackets, bold graphics, studs, spikes, and vibrant hair colors, reflecting the essence of rebellion and individuality. The manga introduces the Punk style through the character Risa Kanzaki.

#2 Mai Ōta: Lolita

Lolita fashion, inspired by Victorian and Rococo aesthetics, is a captivating and whimsical Japanese subculture. Characterized by frilly dresses, petticoats, lace, bows, and doll-like accessories, it emphasizes a delicate and doll-like appearance, promoting a sense of elegance and innocence. The manga introduces the Lolita style through the character Mai Ōta.

#3 Tsutomu Yamaguchi: Retro Futuristic

The cyber fashion trend, a retro-futuristic movement, surged in popularity in late 90s Japan. Embracing futuristic aesthetics, it fused modern technology with vintage-inspired elements, such as robotic motifs, metallic textures, and bold neon colors, offering a captivating glimpse into a high-tech fashion frontier. The manga introduces the Retro Futuristic style through the character Tsutomu Yamaguchi.

#4 Mariko Nakasu: “French casual”

The "French Casual" style showcases refined outfits with a touch of Parisian flair. Strongly inspired by Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel, it exudes sophistication and elegance, combining chic simplicity with high-quality craftsmanship, making it a distinctive and fashionable choice. The manga introduces the “French Casual” style through the character Mariko Nakasu.

Paradise Kiss

Paradise Kiss is a sequel to Gokinjo Monogatari, set two decades later and featuring fresh characters alongside some familiar faces from its predecessor.
The story revolves around Yukari, a high school student drawn into the world of fashion by the talented and enigmatic George. She encounters different people with contrasting lives, challenging her future plans and family ties. As she navigates love, ambition, and self-discovery, her journey unfolds with passion, style, and heartwrenching choices. In Paradise Kiss, Ai Yazawa revisits fashion styles seen in Gokinjo Monogatari while also introducing fresh and innovative styles to her manga.
Paradise Kiss showcases a diverse group of styles, including Punk, Lolita, Aristocrat Style, and Glam Rock. Let's briefly analyze each one of them:

#1 Miwako Sakurada: Lolita & Fairy Kei

Fairy Kei is a whimsical and colorful Japanese street fashion that draws inspiration from fairy tales and retro 80s aesthetics. Characterized by pastel colors, cute accessories, and nostalgic elements, it celebrates a playful and dreamy look, creating an enchanting and magical appearance. The manga introduces the Fairy Kei style through the character Miwako Sakurada (Miwako's clothes are not loyal to a particular style, but she usually wears Lolita and Fairy Kei inspired outfits).

#2 Arashi Nagase: Punk & Visual Kei

Visual Kei is a unique Japanese music-inspired fashion subculture. With its roots in the 1980s rock scene, it embraces elaborate hairstyles, dramatic makeup, and gender-blurring outfits. This rebellious style creates an artistic and theatrical expression, captivating fans with its striking and avant-garde appearance. The manga introduces the Visual Kei style through the character Arashi Nagase (Arashi's outfits are heavily influenced by both Punk and Visual Kei).

#3 Isabella Yamamoto: Elegant Aristocrat Style

The Elegant Aristocrat style, also known as "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" or "EGA," is a refined and sophisticated Japanese fashion subculture. Influenced by Victorian and Edwardian aesthetics, it features elegant, dark, and luxurious outfits, often incorporating lace, ruffles, corsets, top hats, and other regal elements, exuding an air of mystery and nobility. The manga introduces the Aristocrat style through the character Isabella Yamamoto.

#4 Jōji Koizumi: Glam Rock

Glam Rock is a bold and extravagant music-inspired fashion movement that emerged in the 1970s. Combining glitter, sequins, and flamboyant outfits, it celebrates self-expression and theatrics. This androgynous and rebellious style embodies a fusion of rock music and glamorous aesthetics, captivating audiences with its vibrant and larger-than-life presence. The manga introduces the Glam Rock style through the character Jōji Koizumi (Joji's style and appearance are inspired by Brian Slade of Velvet Goldmine, which is loosely based on David Bowie).

Nana

Nana stands as Ai Yazawa's most acclaimed work, garnering popularity for its mature themes.
The story revolves around two girls sharing the name "Nana" but possessing contrasting personalities, reflected in their fashion choices - one adopts a punk style, the other a casual, feminine look. While music drives Nana's artistic world more than fashion, style remains a significant aspect and numerous references to influential figures from the fashion industry are made through the narrative. The protagonists, Nana Osaki and Nana Komatsu, form an unlikely bond, moving to Tokyo together. The manga explores the complexities of their lives and those around them, delving deep into realistic themes.
Music and fashion form the two central threads of the plot. As some of the characters are musicians, their journey involves concerts, studio rehearsals, and the pursuit of fame. Fashion becomes the second cornerstone, woven cleverly by the author, as the character's clothing reflect their personality and lifestyle.

Punk & Vivienne Westwood

Punk's emergence in England, led by the Sex Pistols, showcased a social phenomenon rooted in nihilism and anarchy. Malcolm McLaren, linked to British fashion, brought punk style from America, and Westwood formalized it. With this Punk fashion became a symbol of rebellion and anarchy for the younger generation. Westwood's collaboration with McLaren fueled the punk movement's artistic evolution. Westwood's artistic milestones and impact on society and subsequent artists like Boy George and Duran Duran further solidified her place in fashion history and significantly influenced Ai Yazawa's inspiration for Nana's fashion. The manga Nana beautifully incorporates Westwood's pieces and captures the essence of Punk's rebellious and edgy fashion aesthetic. Ren Honjo, a key character, is even inspired by Sid Vicious, the Sex Pistols bassist. Through appearance and attite but also in their life philosophy, both grappling with tendencies toward addiction.

Coded by Joana Soares ⊱✿⊰