Find Your Climbing Shoe

Beginner

A beginner has climbed at least a few times. They may have completed climbs up to a 5.9 on top rope or a V2 boulder problem. Beginners would do best with their own pair of neutral shoes. Wearing comfortable shoes is important for beginner climbers to allow them to climb for longer periods of time.
Intermediate

An intermediate climber will have been climbing for a few years. They may have learned how to lead climb or may have completed climbs up to 5.11+ on top rope or a V6 boulder problem. Intermediate climbers would do best with their own pair of moderate shoes.
Advanced

An advanced climber will likely have been climbing for several years. They will likely be able to climb most routes in a gym, including top rope and lead routes as well as boulder problems. Advanced climbers would do best with their own pair of aggressive shoes.
Expert

An expert climber will likely have been climbing for most of their life. They will likely be able to flash most routes in a gym and climb 5.14 outdoors. Expert climbers would do best with their own pair of aggressive shoes, specifically a performance-based shoe. Some expert climbers believe that sizing down on a shoe helps more than wearing a shoe that fits well. This is not necessarily the case with modern climbing shoes, but can still be accurate if the climber is wearing a shoe that is not classified as a performance shoe.

Velcro

Shoes with a velcro closure system (VCS) are popular for their snug fit and how easy they are to put on and remove. VCS allows climbers to somewhat customize the fit of their shoe, depending on the placement and number of velcro closures. Some shoes have only one velcro closure which only allows the wearer to adjust the snugness for one point of contact. Most shoes will feature at least two velcro closures and some have three.
Lace-up

Lace-up shoes allow for the snuggest and most customizable fit. These may work best for climbers with narrow feet or high arches. Lace-up shoes are notoriously time-consuming to put on and take off, making them less than ideal for climbers who wish give their feet a break during a climbing session.
Slip-on

Slip-on shoes do not allow for a cuztomizable fit. Slip-on shoes should still fit snugly onto the foot, depending on the brand and the design. These shoes are easy to put on and remove, making them ideal for long climbing sessions requiring lots of breaks. Additionally, slip-on shoes are most common in a neutral or moderate fit, making them a fairly comfortable shoe to wear for a long session or a full day at your local crag.

Symmetrical

Symmetrical shoes offer very little tension naturally. Other factors in the design may allow for more foot tension. Climbers with a Greek or Square foot shape will feel most comfortable in shoes that are symmetrical.
Low Asymmetry

Shoes with low asymmetry offer a little foot tension. Climbers with a Greek or Egyptian foot shape will feel most comfortable in shoes with a low asymmetry.
Medium Asymmetry

Shoes with medium asymmetry offer a moderate amount of foot tension. Climbers with an Egyptian foot shape will feel most comfortable in shoes with medium asymmetry.
High Asymmetry

Shoes that are highly asymmetric offer the most foot tension and the most power. These shoes are not going to be very comfortable for many climbers but are bearable.

Checking your Achilles

To check whether your Achilles is stiff or flexible:
1. Cross one leg over the other with the ankle of the top leg rested on the knee of the lower leg.
2. Flex your foot into a flattened position as if you were standing.
3. Squeeze your thumb around your Achilles as it is flexed. If you feel a lot of resistance or some pain, you likely have a stiff Achilles. If you do not feel a lot of resistance or have little to no pain, you likely have a flexible Achilles.
Stiff Achilles

Climbers with a stiff Achilles may prefer a straighter heel cup with a low amount of heel tension. Try on multiple shoes to test your comfort level.
Flexible Achilles

Climbers with a flexible Achilles will most likely be fine with a rounded heel cup with a high amount of heel tension. Beginners may be uncomfortable with a high amount of heel tension but most neutral shoes do not have a high amount of heel tension.

🧗‍♀️Climb like Cinderella